If this is your first day walking, it will actually be your most peaceful day in that there aren’t any large villages between Sarria and Portomarin. When you leave from the church on the Calle Mayor in Sarria (on left), the next centre of population you will come across is Portomarín itself. There are a few cafes to en route to tide you over if you’re hungry or thirsty.
Stage Profile Sarria to Portomarín (Day 28)
Distance 22.5 km
Walking Time 4:20 hours
Max. / Min. Altitude 659m / 352m
The rolling countryside continues, meaning another day passing through a combination of farmyards, hamlets and fields. The day’s walk has very little level walking, but any climbs or descents have a low level of difficulty. In general, you will be climbing for the first half of the day, but then descending into Portomarín.
There are no major villages between Sarria and Portomarín, but there are plenty of small cafes to stop in on the way.
Walking Notes – These are based on an average to slightly quicker than average pace and are only to give you an indication of the times involved.
0:00 To leave Sarria, continue to the top of Calle Mayor and turn right, waymarked, at the old Jesuit Misión. Continue ahead to the Albergue Monasterio where you turn left to descend steeply past a graveyard. At the bottom of the hill, turn right at a stone waymarker at a crossroads, passing K110.5. Continue until you reach a stone bridge where you turn left, waymarked, which brings you to walk alongside the railway track, passing K110.
0:20 Cross the railway tracks and keep left, passing K109.5. Continue to walk alongside the railway line until the Camino veers away to come to a wooden bridge over a stream where the track climbs steeply for 5 minutes before levelling out somewhat.
0:40 Barbadelo. A hamlet with a pension/albergue/café and 2 other albergues.
The camino comes to the road which brings you to Barbadelo, forking right at the albergue Casa Barbadelo, passing K108, then keeping right then left after some houses. (Plenty of arrows). Continue uphill right from Barbadelo at a waymarked fork.
0:50 The camino keeps to the right at K107.5 passing a church and the Albergue O Pombal and a vending machine. 10 minutes later, turn left off the road, waymarked, at K106.5. Keep straight ahead to join a minor road, climbing past K106.
1:10 Cross the road at Taberna Mercana da Serra to continue on a track. Swing left at K105 by a fountain and then right at the Molino de Marzán albergue after K104.5. After K104, cross a main road and continue on a minor road to pass a café after K103.
1:55 At K101.5, keep right at a fork and a minute later keep straight ahead at a crossroads in the path by some farmhouses.
2:15 The camino, after keeping right at a stone waymarker a minute previously, passes K100. Then at K99.5, there’s a pension with a café and seating area.
2:30 Keep right at a fork, waymarked by arrows. Then turn right at a farmyard, then sweep left, passing K98.5. 5 minutes later, pass the Café Cruceiro, where the Camino swings around to the left and then right. This brings you downhill down a minor road, passing K98, and then at the bottom of the hill you pass Mesón Lirallos (bar and seating area) before climbing uphill again past a church and graveyard. At the top of the hill, swing left to continue downhill again.
2:45 Pass the Casa Do Rego (café and albergue) on the right. 10 minutes later, turn right off the minor road at the K96.5 marker to continue up a path and veer left 2 minutes later at a fork.
3:10 The path crosses a minor road and continues as a path past a couple of houses after which the Camino continues along a small road again. At K95, turn left off the road and continue on the path which passes a small bar before K94.5, after which you pass a small souvenir shop. Just after this, you rejoin a minor road again.
3:30 Leave the road once more, continuing downhill on a path past K93.5. The path continues to flirt with minor roads.
3:55 Pass a small cluster of houses with an area to get drinks, passing K91.5, then at K91, as you cross a minor road, you get your first sighting of Portomarín ahead. You continue downhill along the path which will then come down to the main road.
4:10 The Camino reaches the main road where you turn left. The road continues to the bridge across the river, passing the K90.
4:20 You reach the iconic steps at the entrance to Portomarín. Portomarín itself is a not much more than a large village, lying ahead and to the right of you as you face the steps. The Camino continues to the left of the steps.